Bahia de los Angeles, Baja California

By Marie Humphrey

I love the Bahia de los Angeles area of Baja California. The Sea of Cortez is very alive with fish, clams, turtles, plants and other interesting organisms. This is evident by all the seashells and shorebirds along the beach.

I have always been intimidated by the unpredictable strong winds that can suddenly come up in the bay, so I prefer to camp on the beach outside of town and do day-paddling trips exploring the bay and islands from base camp.

Saturday morning, we loaded up two vehicles, crossed the Mexican border around 6:30 a.m. and began our 10-hour drive to "L.A. Bay". The journey on Highway 1 starts out along the beautiful Pacific Ocean coast, then turns inland through the mountains and becomes beautiful cactus country. The Cardon and Cirio are really unique in this area and create a stunning contrast to the beautiful blue of the Sea of Cortez.

When we arrived at Camp in the afternoon, we were fortunate to find that there was a quaint 2-bedroom cabin with kitchen and bathroom waiting for us. We had a beautiful view of the bay from the open veranda and all the comforts of home. The cabin was even equipped with running water, hot water heater for the shower, propane refrigerator, and 2-burner stove. This was much more luxurious than our usual accommodations so we were thrilled.

During the week, the winds on the Bay were both a blessing and a curse. The temperatures were extremely warm during the day so the wind kept us cool and very comfortable. However, when the wind came up we had to get off the water, fast, and do other activities. Fortunately, there are plenty of other activities in Bahia de los Angeles.

In the mornings with no wind, the water was smooth as glass and crystal clear. Paddling along the rocks was like being in an aquarium with all the fish and aquatic plants beneath us. Above us the pelicans and terns swooped and dove for food.

One day we paddled to a beach directly across the bay from our campsite. The beach had crystal white sand with mangroves beyond. There was no one there except for one stranded boat and a few coyotes. There were elephant trees and huge boulders to climb as well as plenty of beachcombing in the clear water.

Another day we paddled to town where there is a wonderful museum with hands-on exhibits telling about the natural history of the area. It holds a full skeleton of a juvenile gray whale, a complete collection of seashells, photos of nearby cave paintings, and many assorted animal pelts, skeletons and photos. Nearby there is also a preservation center for the sea turtles that are becoming endangered due to killing by humans.

Another day, with a 4-wheel-drive vehicle we explored ancient Indian cliff paintings and visited Mission San Borja, both located a few miles off the beaten path through the Cardon forest.

A couple of mornings we searched for clams at low tide and collected chocolata, butter, and pismos that made really tasty appetizers. We found one clam that measured at least six inches across. We were also given a triggerfish by one of the local fishermen and cooked it whole on the grill with lots of lime. Boy was it yummy!

Our walks along the beach were always full of surprises. One day we discovered an old trailer with two ancient kayaks lying beside it. The kayaks were made of fiberglass, one a sit-on-top model and one a decked model. Both had bulkheads and would have been quite water tight and efficient if not for a few holes that had finally rendered them useless.

All in all, we really enjoy the variety and peaceful life of Bahia de los Angeles.

Click Here for more information on our next trip.