Santa Cruz Island, Channel Islands National Park
By Marie Humphrey

I had visited the Channel Islands National Park information center last April and was intrigued by the unique species of wildlife that could be found there. So it was time to take a trip out to Santa Cruz Island and see if for ourselves.

Margo and I left San Diego County Thursday at 4:30 p.m. and arrived at Ventura Harbor around 8:30 p.m. We found a great Italian restaurant at the marina and then slept in Margo's van in the parking lot. We woke at 6:00 a.m. to the sounds of vehicles carrying kayaks and backpackers to the docks. We had made arrangements with Island Packers to transport us, our kayaks and gear across the Santa Barbara Channel to Santa Cruz Island. There were three boats going over that morning and ours was the second boat leaving by 8:00 a.m. The Island Packers staff was very efficient in stowing all the gear, boats and bodies on the correct boats.

We left the docks promptly and headed out under sunny skies for the 1.75 hour crossing to the island. The boat was well equipped with two viewing levels and a galley that sold hot and cold food and beverages. On the way over, pods of dolphins came bounding over to surf in the bow wake. They were having great fun and we enjoyed watching their antics.

As we approached Santa Cruz we began to realize how huge an island it is. At over 96 square miles in size it contains two rugged mountain ranges with the highest peaks on the island rising above 2,000 feet and 77 miles of craggy coastline cliffs, numerous sea caves, pristine tidepools and expansive beaches. The three smaller islands making up Anacapa could be seen about five miles south of us.

Because the islands are isolated from the mainland, over time the plants and animals have evolved in their own separate way. The island fox, island scrub jay, and eight species of plants can only be found on the Channel Islands. The Torrey Pines are found nowhere else in the world except here in San Diego County and on Santa Cruz Island. The islands support more than 600 plant species in ten different plant communities from underwater marine parks, marshes and grasslands to chaparral, olive groves and pine forests. There are 140 landbird and 11 land mammal species, three amphibian and five reptile species as well as large colonies of nesting sea birds, breeding seals and sea lions, dolphins, and other diverse marine animals.

Remnants of the ranching era also can be seen throughout the island. Adobe ranch houses, barns, blacksmith and saddle shops, wineries, and a chapel all attest to the many uses of Santa Cruz in the 1800s and 1900s. At Scorpion Ranch the massive ovens that produced bread for the entire island are still intact.

One of the largest and deepest sea caves in the world, Painted Cave, is found on the northwest coastline of Santa Cruz. Named because of its colorful rock types, lichens and algaes, the cave is nearly a quarter-mile long and 100 feet wide, with an entrance ceiling of 160 feet and a waterfall over this entrance in the spring.

When we docked at Scorpion Anchorage on Santa Cruz Island, we all formed a line along the dock to the shore and began passing gear down the gauntlet. When everything was offloaded, we had kayaks along one side of the dock and a huge pile of gear at the end. Amazingly everyone found their camping gear in quick order and organized for the ¼ mile trek to the campground. The boats and paddling gear were safe on the beach above the high tide line.

The day was beginning to warm up but the campground at Scorpion Ranch is located in a breezy eucalyptus grove. We soon had our camp set up and were ready to explore some sea caves.

As we launched our boats in the small surf, I had no idea what to expect. I was a little apprehensive. Ten of us started exploring the coastline to the south. We were all outfitted with PFD's, helmets and headlamps.

The first cave we came to was actually an L-shape. There was only a small surge from the surf as we entered single file from the east end into a cavern that widened out and then turned south to exit. Because there was light coming in from both ways, we didn't need the headlamps and it wasn't too scary. So far, so good.

The next cave was the most difficult for me. It was only about 4 feet wide so I followed Jeff in using my hands to pull myself along. The narrow passage was about 80 feet long and it curved a little so it got really dark. I had not turned on my headlamp yet and it was pitch black. The water was rising a little and I could feel the wall or ceiling of the cave against my head. I started to get really nervous and grabbed the face of my lamp to turn it on. Unfortunately, I twisted too hard and the face came off in my hand. I called out for Jeff and he turned his light on and I immediately realized that I had entered a large room that could easily fit about eight to ten kayaks inside. Now with the light on I calmed down although I got a little claustrophobic as the water surged in and out. Soon we were all ready to get the heck out of there.

The rest of the caves that we explored that afternoon were much less deep and the headlamps weren't needed. My favorite was a very long and wide tunnel with light shining in from under the water. This made the whole cavern aqua blue and the water appear crystal clear.

The next day we rose at daybreak and were on the water by 9:00 a.m. The plan was to paddle west around to the north side of the island to Chinese Harbor before the wind came up. Then we would take time to explore on the way back with the wind to our backs. Although the skies are often overcast around the islands, the sky today was clear and sunny. As we paddled along the high cliffs we saw many flocks of brown pelicans and came upon a large rock where many sea lions perched. We landed in medium surf at Chinese Harbor about an hour after our start.

This portion of the island is overseen by the Nature Conservancy and is off limits to camping so it gets little use. The beach is littered with driftwood and a menagerie of floats, ropes, shells, bones and artifacts of marine life. We spent a couple of hours on the beach sunbathing, swimming and exploring. Down the beach from where we landed, we found a baby pilot whale washed up on shore. It was still breathing so one of the guys pulled it out about waste deep into the surf. Sadly, it returned to shore and died there within the hour.

The launch back out through the surf was a bit steeper and we had a couple of mishaps on the way out (I won't mention any names). On the paddle back to Scorpion Cove, there were many caves to explore. I was feeling a little seasick myself so I didn't enter the caves, but just enjoyed the beauty and serenity of the coastline.

When we returned to camp that afternoon, many put on their hiking shoes and explored the island by foot. There are several trails that traverse the island and the steep routes soon reward the traveler with pristine views of the coastline and the Anacapa Islands to the southeast.

That evening, the entire group got together for a wonderful potluck meal with plenty of story telling and getting to know each other. It is amazing what a great and diverse group of people shares the sport of kayaking. The park rangers gave a slide show presentation that evening and we were able to see up-close photos of the wildlife and history of the area.

Sunday morning, we again were on the water by 9:00 a.m. and headed south to explore the southern coast of the island. We explored some of the same sea caves from the first day but then traveled further to Smuggler's Cove. There was a beach break here on rocky ground but we managed to land fairly intact. We took a short hike up to the old adobe house at Scorpion Ranch and then scavenged along the beach for shells and colorful rocks. There is a shipwreck on the sand with old worn timbers and huge copper spikes.

Launching back out through the surf was really a challenge. Two to three foot waves were breaking in succession and then crashing right on the beach. Everyone managed to get out okay except me. I was too impatient and didn't wait for a lull in the wave pattern but rather took off into the surf too soon. One wave broke right on me, carried me backward toward shore and then spun me sideways where a second wave caught me and tumbled me underwater. I immediately did a wet exit and wondered how I was ever going to get my water-filled kayak to shore.

Fortunately, a couple of the guys had hiked over from camp and were there on shore to assist me. Once I was emptied out and back in the boat, I waited until there was a lull in the waves and went out smoothly without encountering any waves at all. My impatience had cost me much time and embarrassment as well as a good soaking. In true form, my companions had all waited patiently for me outside the surf line and we headed back to Scorpion Cove as a group.

The sunset that evening was spectacular and a few of us hiked up to the top of the bluff for "happy hour." The 360-degree view was stunning. Anacapa Island could be seen to the southeast with the full moon rising just above its highest volcanic peak. There was a warm summer breeze that was invigorating and made us all feel on top of the world.

That evening about six of us decided to play "stealth kayaker" and went for a midnight paddle under the full moon. There were a few sailboats, trimarans, and fishing boats anchored just south of the cove so we approached each of them silently to see what was going on. We chatted with those who were still awake, pretending that we had just paddled over to the island and needed directions to the campground. One of the trimarans was large enough to paddle between the hulls so of course we had to do it.

The next morning was our last day on the island, so we broke down camp after breakfast and trekked our gear back to the beach. The Island Packers boat wasn't due until 3:00 p.m. so Margo and I decided to go off on our own and revisit some of the caves and coves.

The water was crystal clear and we enjoyed sitting above the underwater canyons to watch the stingrays glide and garibaldi dart below. We landed in a little cove and did some beachcombing for rocks and shells and bones. We made one last paddle through the cave with the aquamarine waters and headed back to the dock.

As the group converged back at the dock, the boat arrived and all the gear, boats and bodies were loaded back on. As we departed the island, I realized what a perfectly marvelous weekend it had been. The dolphins visited us again on the way to the mainland and the clear skies made the view spectacular from the top deck of the boat.

I highly recommend this trip to others. As paddlers we always made sure to paddle in pairs or with the group and wore PFD's, helmets and headlamps for caving. We had an outing planned for each day and the enthusiasm for exploration was contagious. However, each person was free to make a choice of what they wanted to do with their time.